New beauty actives: between science, marketing and actual efficacy
Exosomes, NAD+, peptides or spicules: hardly any area of the beauty industry is developing as fast at present as facial care. Many new actives are marketed as a “revolution”, often before robust clinical data exist. For pharmacists the question therefore arises ever more insistently: which ingredients actually have evidence-based benefits? Which concentrations make sense? And where does skilful marketing begin rather than pharmacologically relevant action?
Key points
- Many trend actives show interesting effects in vitro or in small studies, but clinically robust data are frequently lacking.
- Efficacy depends strongly on formulation, stability and concentration, not on the “trend ingredient” alone.
- Pharmacists are gaining importance as scientific advisers able to place marketing promises critically.
New active substances in focus
Exosomes: the new “regeneration revolution”?
Exosomes currently count as one of the biggest trends in premium dermocosmetics. They are tiny extracellular vesicles that transport growth factors, proteins and RNA. Originally they come from regenerative medicine and wound healing research.
In cosmetics, exosomes are meant to improve cell communication, reduce inflammation and stimulate collagen synthesis. Initial laboratory studies do indeed show regenerative effects on fibroblasts and skin healing.[1] However, much of the data comes from aesthetic medicine or experimental settings, not from large placebo-controlled skincare trials.
Particularly critical: in Europe and Switzerland there is as yet no uniform regulatory definition of cosmetic exosome products. Many preparations contain merely “exosome-conditioned media” or fermented plant extracts with exosome-like properties.
The concentration, too, often remains unclear. Manufacturers rarely communicate standardised quantities or biological activity. For pharmacists this means: the scientific evidence is interesting, but the clinical data for classic topicals remains limited.
How quickly such concepts have reached the consumer market is shown, for example, by the Medicube PDRN Pink Exosome Shot Serum 7500, which advertises 7,500 ppm of exosomes; the INCI list includes Lactobacillus extracellular vesicles and milk exosomes. This example illustrates the problem, however: the term “exosomes” alone says nothing about the origin, biological activity or clinical efficacy of the vesicles contained.
Practically relevant dosage
At present there are no established therapeutic concentration ranges. What appears decisive is the quality of preparation and stabilisation rather than a high absolute dose.
NAD+ and nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN): anti-ageing or hype?
NAD+ (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) is a cellular coenzyme that plays a central role in energy metabolism. NAD+ levels in the body fall with age, which is why NMN and other precursors are currently marketed intensively as anti-ageing substances.
In skincare they are meant to support mitochondrial function and reduce oxidative stress.[2] Animal models and cell studies do show interesting effects on DNA repair mechanisms and cell ageing.[3]
The problem: topically applied NAD+ is unstable and penetrates the skin only to a limited extent. Many products advertise NAD+ but contain only small amounts or poorly stabilised forms.
Far better investigated dermatologically, by contrast, is niacinamide (vitamin B3). Several randomised studies show improvements in hyperpigmentation, skin barrier, sebum production and fine lines.[4]
Practically relevant dosage
- niacinamide: evidence-based usually 2–5 %, in part up to 10 %
- higher concentrations markedly increase the potential for irritation
- for NMN/NAD+ no validated topical dosage recommendations yet exist
For the pharmacy this means: niacinamide currently remains far better scientifically supported than modern NAD+ derivatives.
Peptides: scientifically plausible — but often underdosed
Peptides are among the best-documented modern anti-ageing substances. Copper peptides in particular, as well as so-called signal peptides such as palmitoyl pentapeptide, stimulate fibroblasts and collagen formation.[5]
A frequently cited study on palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 showed improvements in skin structure and wrinkle depth after 12 weeks.[6] Nevertheless there are large differences between formulations.
The main problem with many cosmetic products lies less in the active substance itself than in concentration and penetration. Many manufacturers declare peptides prominently on the packaging but use them only in minimal quantities, because high-quality peptides are expensive.
In addition, peptides are sensitive to oxidation and require suitable formulations with stabilising systems.
One example from classic pharmacy dermocosmetics is the Vichy Liftactiv Collagen Specialist 16 Bonding Serum. The formulation combines collagen peptides with rhamnose and maitake, among other things. Here too, however, it is not the word “peptide” on the packaging that determines efficacy, but the type, concentration and formulation of the peptide system used.
Practically relevant dosage
- signal peptides usually in the range of 0.5–5 ppm up to 0.01 %
- copper peptides typically 0.05–0.1 %
- higher concentrations do not automatically mean better efficacy
For pharmacists, a qualitative assessment of the overall formulation therefore becomes more important than the mere presence of a trend substance.
Spicules: microneedling in a serum?
In Korea in particular, so-called “spicules” are gaining popularity. These are microscopically small silicate or marine needles intended to transport active substances mechanically deeper into the skin.
The effect is reminiscent of mild microneedling. Initial investigations do show increased penetration of certain actives.[7] At the same time, however, the risk of irritation, barrier damage and inflammatory reactions rises, particularly in rosacea or sensitive skin.
Long-term safety data are so far largely lacking.
How concretely the trend is now being marketed is shown, for instance, by the Erborian Ginseng Micro Shot 0.1 %. The serum is offered with a spicule concentration of 0.1 per cent and contains hydrolyzed sponge. Such transparent concentration statements do make assessment easier, but they do not replace long-term clinical data on efficacy and tolerability.
Practically relevant dosage
The effect depends primarily on particle size and density. Uniform standards do not currently exist.
What does this mean for pharmacists?
Modern dermocosmetics is moving away from classic care and towards pharmacological concepts. At the same time the gap between marketing and evidence-based dermatology is widening.
An important counselling mandate arises from this in the pharmacy in particular:
- classify active substances scientifically
- question concentrations critically
- put unrealistic anti-ageing promises into perspective
- recognise the potential for irritation
- recommend evidence-based alternatives
The combination of efficacy, stability and skin tolerability remains particularly relevant. A “trend substance” alone does not yet make an effective product.
Many established ingredients such as retinal, niacinamide or vitamin C continue to have considerably better clinical data than numerous current hype substances.
When evidence beats hype
Anyone asking in the pharmacy for modern anti-ageing actives does not necessarily have to reach for the newest trend product. Examples of transparently formulated pharmacy dermocosmetics are Avène Hyaluron Activ Procedure with 0.1 per cent retinal, Avène Hyaluron Activ B3 with 6 per cent niacinamide and La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C12 with 12 per cent pure vitamin C. They stand as examples of substances whose dermatological evidence base is currently considerably broader than that of numerous current beauty trends.
In brief
The future of dermocosmetics probably lies less in ever-new trend actives than in intelligent formulations with clinically meaningful dosing. Pharmacists can position themselves here as scientifically grounded points of contact, particularly for consumers increasingly unsettled by the tension between social media hype and genuine evidence.
References
- Cho BS et al. Exosomes derived from human adipose tissue-derived mesenchymal stem cells alleviate atopic dermatitis. Stem Cell Research & Therapy. 2018;9(1):187.
- Braidy N et al. NAD+ metabolism in aging and cancer. Trends in Cancer. 2019;5(10):593–610.
- Yoshino J et al. NAD+ intermediates: The biology and therapeutic potential of NMN and NR. Cell Metabolism. 2018;27(3):513–528.
- Draelos ZD et al. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy. 2006;8(2):96–101.
- Gorouhi F, Maibach HI. Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2009;31(5):327–345.
- Robinson LR et al. Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2005;27(3):155–160.
- Kim H et al. Enhanced transdermal delivery using microneedle-like marine sponge spicules. Drug Delivery and Translational Research. 2019;9(1):164–173.